Citrus Wine (Vin d’orange)
One of the perks of being a chef at Zuni Café is being able to have a drink or... three at the stand-up copper bar that overlooks bustling Market street through floor to ceiling windows. I say perk, because when I was a cook, hanging out in the restaurant after work wasn’t allowed. But, one day, I was promoted and right there I relished my new status, standing, with a lengthy celebration. The bar manager, Steven gave me a splash of his latest house-made aperitif Vin d’Orange. It’s an infused and fortified wine hailing from Provence, made with the hard to get (even in California) Seville oranges, white wine, vodka, grappa, sugar and scraped vanilla bean pods. It tastes at once sweet, bitter, bright and refreshing, all in perfect balance. Like Call Me By Your Name, if it were set in France and a drink.
That was four years ago, and every year since I’ve only ever seen it on the menu during the Spring and Summer months. This year I wanted to make it for me and my hubbie, John. This is a simplified version that calls for Seville oranges if you can find them, but a mix of other citrus as well: navel and cara cara orange, lemons, and grapefruits. I made a batch with vanilla bean like the traditional provençal aperitif. In another I added fresh mint and a Oaxacan herb called hoja santa that has a flavor similar to licorice.
But the main ingredient is time which is one thing many of us have in abundance right now. I call for you to store the citrus wine in 1 liter jars, but you can use any vessel that will fit in a cool dark space. If you don’t use 1 liter jars, try to save spent wine bottles and corks while your citrus wine is resting so you can use them store the wine in your refrigerator when it’s ready to drink. Also, this stuff is addictive: you’ll be tempted to drink every afternoon but try, try, to save some for a later date. As the wine settles, it tends to get better with time.
15 pieces fresh citrus, mixture of oranges, lemons, and grapefruit, avoid limes.
6 liters, crisp, dry white wine such as sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio, or even a rosé
1 liter vodka
1 ¾ pounds sugar
1 vanilla bean (optional, alternatively use fresh herb such as mint or basil, 1 bunch, leaves plucked and stems discarded)
Cut all citrus into 1-inch sized wedges that will fit into the mouths of 8, 1-liter jars. Fill the jars evenly with the different varieties of citrus. If you don't have jars, you can use a large plastic cambro container, or two large containers with lids.
In a large pot or working in batches in a large bowl mix the white wine, vodka and sugar together with a whisk until sugar is dissolved. If using vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise and scrape seeds into wine mixture. If using fresh herbs instead of vanilla, place plucked leaves in prepared jars.
With a ladle or measuring cup, pour wine mixture into jars with citrus. Seal tightly and place in a cool spot for 3-4 weeks. Your refrigerator will work or a dark pantry or closet.
While the wine is resting, take time to taste each bottle once a week for a level of sweetness and bitterness. If you feel it is too bitter add a little dissolved sugar to the bottle, using the citrus wine itself to dissolve the sugar.
Once the wine is done resting and is balanced in sweetness and bitterness you can strain out the citrus solids from the bottles. But, I only strain the citrus wedges out if they are taking the wine into a too bitter direction. Serve simply on ice with citrus peel or with a dash of sparkling water.
